Each Chef Must Train Here’: Humble Turkish Restaurant Secures Fourth on Roll of London’s Top Restaurants.
When assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate familiar high-end venues. Yet, situated prominently among these food giants is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of north London.
An Shocking Honour
This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The honour has made the family totally surprised.
“I am completely astonished,” remarks a family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small place achieving such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.
The Character of Simplicity
The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.
A Star Offering: Tantuni
Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy quality.
It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.
It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.
Other Than the Classic Tantuni
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and more balanced profile.
Rising Above the Stars
Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.
The Philosophy of Hospitality
It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.
“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
The view is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.
A Journey of Perseverance
Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.
Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.
“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.
An Accomplishment for the Community
This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary honour.